Last night in Rome!

Rome Fall II at Trevi Fountain - December 8, 2010

Wednesday my class had a good-bye dinner in Rome, and then went to throw our coins in the beautiful Trevi Fountain.

The weather has been quite pleasant the last couple days. It is hard to believe that tomorrow we will be picked up by our families in snowy  northeast Ohio.

My last sunset in Rome - from the rooftop balcony of our dorm

Thanks to everyone for visiting my blog over the last two months. Unfortunately the internect connections are not the best here, so posting has been difficult - but I will continue to share our adventures once I get home. I would also like to say thank you to Brothers Mario and Giovanni. They have been wonderful hosts! And last, but most important, thanks to my twelve students. They were the best part of my teaching abroad experience!!!

Venice, Florence, and Sorrento/Pompeii

Canal in Venice



We have taken three weekend trips during our time in Italy. We spent October 29-31 in Lido, just outside Venice by water taxi. We used all the types of transportation to get there. First a van ride to the airport, then a flight (after an eight-hour delay at Fiumicino), then a bus, and last a boat! But when we finally arrived we had a delicious dinner – the lasagna melted in my mouth – and that is no exaggeration! On Saturday we toured one of the oldest and most well-known Murano glass factories where we watched a demonstration by one of their master glass-blowers. Then we went into Venice and of course looked for the canals and gondolas. I was personally disappointed in Venice, as the crowds from the cruise ships made it difficult to get around. But it is certainly beautiful.

Flight delay at Fiumicino



Basilica of San Marco



A street on Murano Island

View from water taxi between Murano and Venice

On November 12 we boarded the high-speed train in Rome to Florence. Before settling in we had a class trip (the day before we read and discussed letters from African and Japanese Americans who fought in Italy during World War II) to the American Military Cemetery and Monument (and in North Canton time it was still Veteran’s Day!) The director gave a very informative presentation before we walked the hallowed grounds. We then went into the Renaissance City, which I am unable to fully capture the “awe” of in words – just magnificent. It was small enough to walk everywhere, which was very nice as we had plenty of time to explore. Most of us made multiple visits to the various markets known for leather goods. Standing on the Ponte Vecchio (bridge) you see an amazing view of the city and the Arno River. And installed just before we arrived is a copy of Michelangelo’s David in front of the Duomo (the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore). On Saturday we went to the Uffizi Museum (the Italian Louvre) where there was a special Caravaggio exhibit. Before leaving on Sunday some of us attended mass at the Duomo. We stayed at the Hotel Domus Florentia, which still had original Renaissance era paintings on the ceilings of some of the guest rooms and in the breakfast area. A very nice trip for all!



Caffe del Professore in Naples



This past weekend we took the high-speed train to Naples, and then the local train, the Circumvesuviana (after a surprise strike interrupted our travels!) to Sorrento. Since we were stranded in Naples, we went for a Gasti di Cioccolata and then some local pizza. Unfortunately there was a garbage strike as well. By mid-afternoon we arrived in Sorrento, such a pretty waterfront town. On Saturday we had a guided tour of Pompeii. I do not shy away from bragging about how U. S. Civil War history is the most important time period, but I will admit this place was wonderful! That evening back in Sorrento we all went for a seafood dinner. I made it down to the docks twice, in the day and then at night. It was gorgeous looking over to Capri Island and then back over the town on the hill. Then on Sunday before leaving I had the best gelato so far (although I will have to keep comparing so that I can advise future faculty directors where they should go – it is the least I can do, right?) My weekend was made even more special because three of my children were able to accompany me. 







Sorrento at night



 

Sorrento

So how do I rank our weekend adventures? I have to go with Florence as my favorite, then Sorrento/Pompeii, and then Venice. I know that many of the students put Pompeii first, but each location had fans. Together these weekends certainly added to our educational and cultural experiences in Italy. They also provided some time to have fun and make the kind of memories that last a lifetime!

 

Dinner in Sorrento



What to do on a free day in Rome?

The students have been busy creating walking tours for their HUM 325 Rome Stories and Traditions class. So I thought I should to do one as well. Last Thursday most of the students (the flu came for a visit during our fifth week here – so several had to stay on campus) accompanied me on their free day for an optional WW II in Rome walking tour. It is not as easy as one might think! I had eight sites planned and we only were able to visit three (mostly because I do not know my way around the city quite well enough yet). We went to the Hotel Excelsior first. The dome, which provides a view of the city, served as German headquarters when they occupied Rome. We then went to the Jewish Ghetto and walked to see the Synagogue. And last, we visited the Museum of Liberation. After dinner we watched the movie Miracle at St. Anna. The plot includes African American soldiers, members of the Italian Resistance, German occupiers, and a small village in the Tuscany region (and part of a Renaissance-era bridge in Florence). Last week we visited the Florence American Military Cemetery and Monument where the director included mention of the movie. (I will fill you in on our Florence visit soon). And we read about the African American Buffalo soldiers in our HIST 375 Americans in Rome class (as well as letters from Japanese American soldiers who served in Italy). The area from Rome, to our campus near Castel Gandolfo, and to the nearby city of Albano is rich in WW II history. Maybe a future class for our Global Studies program?

Embassy Day in Rome and 50th Founder's Day at Walsh University

Today we left campus early for an appointment at the American Embassy in Rome. Because of the train schedule, we held our Americans in Rome history class discussion on U.S. Ambassador Clare Boothe Luce (1953-56) in the Termini McDonald’s (surrounded by ancient Roman ruins). We then walked to Via Veneto where we met with the Cultural Attaché David Mees for an explanation of the Embassy’s present role. Next we enjoyed a tour of the Palazzo Margherita. To me the most fascinating room was the trompe l’oeil corridor where Mussolini held meetings with his Fascist followers in the 1930s and early 40s (the palace became the U.S. Embassy during the Cold War).

American Embassy in the Palazzo Margherita

While the students and I greatly appreciated this opportunity, one given to so few other U. S. citizens, to be honest we were disappointed not to have contact with any native-born English speaking Americans. But as we learned from Attaché Mees’ own illustrious foreign service, a career with almost any global embassy is open to most of us. Maybe one day one of our own Walsh students will have the opportunity to work in an embassy somewhere else in the world now that they have had this international educational experience provided by our Global Learning Office.

Happy 50^th Founder’s Day Walsh University!!!!!!

I am back!

Where can you experience the best examples of Renaissance architecture, examine medieval torture devices, and walk by the center of the Mafia taskforce in one afternoon? The Via Giulia in Rome! Today the rainy skies once again gave way to a few rays of sunshine when our “Art and Culture of Rome” class visited the Campo dei Fiori and the Via Giulia.

Monument to Giordano Bruno (to mark location of his execution, he was burned alive as a heretic
in 1600) in the center of Campo dei Fiori

The Mascherone, the "big mask," Farnese family fountain on the Via Giulia

Bridge over Via Giulia connecting Farnese family properties - designed by Michelangelo

One of the skulls on the Santa Maria dell' Orazione e Morte on the Via Giulia

Our experiences today provide a perfect opportunity for the students to reconsider the question I posed to them at the beginning of our eight weeks together – and the theme that I have tried to weave through all of our classes and site visits: As a Walsh student experiencing a semester abroad, are you a tourist or a traveler? The historian in me is energized by the recent scholarship on this historical concept/category of analysis. Probably not so exciting for my students, but I think more than a few are “converting.” So what do our readers think? Please reply so that my students and I can compare the ideas!


At the Museo Criminologico - it is real!



Also at the Museo Criminologico



Rome Stories and Traditions

Monday, November 8. A cloudy, rainy day today! We had our fourth Rome Stories and Traditions class this morning - the topic, “Secular Culture.” After taking the train into Rome we took the bus to the Pantheon. How do you describe it? Pictures do not do justice to the magnificence of the dome and oculus (especially with the rain falling inside, luckily it had slowed to a light mist when we were there). Seeing Raphael’s tomb and the guarded alter of Vittorio Emanuele II (the first King of united Italy) in the first Christianized pagan building in the city was interesting. On the walk we passed the modern Senate and State Archives, as well as many piazzas, which were not too crowded today due to the weather. We then went to the Piazza Navona, once the site of the Stadium of Domitian (a huge athletic arena) and now a

Oculus in center of dome of the Pantheon - I wish you could see the rain drops



Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers in the Piazza Navona



My espresso cup souvenir from the Caffe Sant Eustachio



showpiece of 17^th Baroque architecture with Bernini’s “Fountain of the Four Rivers” in the middle. We finished the day with an espresso from the Caffe Sant Eustachio (est. 1938). The coffee is made with water still carried in by an ancient Roman aqueduct. For those who were not as in awe of this fact as I was – there was gelato across the street. In over three weeks I still have not tasted it – what am I waiting for?

Some of the students going up the Scala Santa



Doors on the San Giovanni Laterano - originally from the Forum




The quilter in me loves the floor of the San Giovanni Laterano



Inside the Santa Domitilla Catacombs



The only catacombs that have a subterranean basilica, a 4th century sunken church where the tour begins.



Last Monday (November 1) our class topic was “Rome as a City of Faith.” We visited the San Giovanni Laterano, the Santa Scala (some of the students went up on their knees), and the Santa Domitilla Catacombs (too cool! There are over nine miles of underground burials, and frescos from the 2^nd century). Check out the student blogs for their insightful reflections on the question of whether history bolsters or limits one faith.

Buongiorno from Castel Gandolfo!

Hello Walsh family and friends! It is a beautiful warm and sunny day in Rome - over 70 degrees (did I see snow in the Ohio forecast?) We have had a very busy week since my last post. This weekend I will try to share with you all of our adventures and learning experiences to bring you up to date.

Students getting their assignments fot Walshfest

Today is Walshfest here at Casa Mennesiana. The Student Director and the twelve students are doing service projects to thank the Brothers of Christian Instruction for their hospitality. Lunch is a barbeque!

Alyssa, Megan, Emily, & Trevor cleaning lounge & computer rooms



Nick S. and Sarah painting the fence




Nick B. & Jackie N. cleaning pine needles and collecting pine cones to burn for bbq



Jackie C, Gemma, & Brooke (the Tiffin Girls) sweeping up pine needles

Victoria cleaning the flower beds

Another update

Saturday, October 23: I started the morning with a walk around the grounds. Then after working for a few hours I decided to try to navigate the train system by myself. I checked the schedules and made it to the station in time (it is about a half mile walk) for the train to Albano. I then made my way to the main streets that I had visited previously with Danilo. Unfortunately my “international traveler” status was obvious to anyone who was out, as I forgot that most shops close from about 1:00 to 4:30 p.m. for siesta. So I walked around window shopping for a couple hours and then sat in the piazza and watched some children play soccer. I proudly ordered an espresso and paid with the correct change all by myself at one of the open cafes. While waiting for the train to return to campus, I enjoyed the animated conversation of a handsome five-year-old Italian boy who had come with his father to watch the trains. Even though I told him that I was an “Americano” and did not speak Italian, he chatted away excitedly in his native tongue for over 15 minutes. After returning to campus I realized that my next adventure will be to take the train alone in the opposite direction – to Rome. Maybe next Wednesday? In the evening I enjoyed a pleasant chat with Laura in Castel Gandolfo. Our first full week in Rome has come to an end. So far the experiences have been more than I ever could have imagined back in my little house in Akron, Ohio (ironically in North Hill, the Italian neighborhood!)

Sunday, October 24: A day to rest! The students got settled into the lounge for a day of homework and catching up with loved ones. I took a nice walk on the grounds, and spoke briefly with a man trimming olive trees (well I should say communicated with as I only know a few words of Italian. But I keep learning) Later some of us ventured out. I spent the afternoon in Castel Gandolfo sitting in the piazza grading. As I mentioned in my last post, we celebrated two birthdays this evening.

View from my table when I graded in Castel Gandolfo
(the pink/orange building to the left is where we had mass our first night here)

Monday, October 25: What a downpour this morning! We had our second HUM 325 class with the sound of rain in the background. Our topic today was “Rome as an historical city and grand open air museum.” Everyone contributed to the discussion on our readings, including a fictional account of Ovid’s exile out of Rome and an Italian writer’s unhappiness with the modern intrusions into her beloved city. The walk to the train station left everyone soaked! But God was smiling upon us and by the time we arrived in Rome the rain had stopped. We grabbed an espresso and lunch (I had ravello, a sandwich made of fresh tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella on fresh baked bread) before taking the underground to the Protestant Cemetery. First we stopped outside to see the pyramid of Gaius Cestius (built in the 1^st century A.D., the most complete surviving pyramid in the city) and plaques honoring the American and Canadian soldiers who helped liberate Rome on July 4, 1944.

The pyramid on the edge of the Protestant Cemetery



Keats' headstone





Angel of Grief



It is so beautiful inside. Ancient Roman walls surround the cemetery, which is filled with 4,000 graves, cypress trees, Mediterranean pines, and flowers everywhere. We visited the headstone of Keats and the tomb of Shelley, and could not miss the “cat colony” (there since 1850!). Then the students went on an assignment to find inscriptions that reflected the deceased’s love of Rome (related to our readings for today). Before heading back to Casa Mennesiana, Danilo and I had a cappuccino at the Caffe Greco – it was delicious!



Monument to King Vittorio Emanuele II



Tuesday, October 26: Woke up to more clouds but only barely raining. We had our second HUM 225 class, the theme today was “Republican Time.” We actually began by going over some of the information that we learned on our tour of Castel San’ Angelo, and then had a short history lesson on Rome. We then discussed our readings on the history of the Capitoline Museum. After Danilo taught the Italian class we caught the train into the city. The rain stopped and the sun peeked in and out the rest of the day. We had lunch (and I had a cappuccino) in the Rome Termini (built in 1867 and described by Pope Pius IX as "the railway station of the capital city of Italy," it is visited by almost 480,000 persons per day!) We then caught a bus ride to the Capitoline Museum – located on Capitoline Hill (one of the seven hills). This has been the heart of Rome’s civil government since the 11^th century (you should see the town hall, it sure looks a lot different than the town hall – both the first and second- across from my childhood home in Grafton, Ohio!) On the walk from the bus stop we passed the impressive monument to King Vittorio Emanuele II. Walking up the stairs to the entrance of the Capitoline, you see a replica of the statue of Marcus Aurelius in the center of the piazza designed by Michelangelo. We had a guided tour which included some of the most significant pieces (the oldest collection in the world) housed in the two buildings (connected by an underground tunnel full of more treasures.) Our guide Barbara educated us on the different periods of Classical sculpture, taught us how to interpret the most important figures in frescos, and explained how to understand the original Marcus Aurelius statue housed inside (although I am curious about the explanation for why the horse’s head is tilted – if the emperor is holding the reins in his left hand then it would pull the horse’s head to tilt in the direction shown in the statue, just saying). We ended the tour outside looking over the Forum - spectacular view!



Original Statue of Marcus Aurelius







The view of the Forum from the back of the Capitoline Museum



When we returned to campus, the students set to work on their Italian homework and I resumed grading. Just as a spectacular sunrise decorated the view from our windows, Laura surprised everyone with pumpkin carving and hot chocolate (Halloween is only a few days away, and we are Americans after allJ).



Some of the student-carved pumpkins



One of the many cats in the Protestant Cemetery



I read about the bad weather in the midwest United States and hope everyone in Northeast Ohio is safe. Until next time, ciao!